03 Audi A4 Brake Light Switch Test Free Updated

12-17-201307:37 PM

I've searched but haven't found a solid answer. I have already replaced the brake light switch merely I could take installed it wrong. My esp and abs light come up on with pushing the brake pedal. I notice that it takes quite a chip of effort to kick out of the prowl command with the brake pedal.

Is there anyway to diagnose this with vagcom? I don't want to spend another $10 on a switch if in that location isn't anything wrong with this.

If I can confirm the switch is not the trouble I'll get my abs module rebuilt

12-18-201302:35 AM

Try this with the switch. Remove it. When the switch is in the unlocked position you tin pull the plunger all the way out. Install the switch with the brake pedal all the mode up against the cease. The plunger volition automatically adjust (push back in) to the correct depth against the brake pedal. One time y'all rotate the switch 45� the plunger should lock into the correct position.

After installing the switch here is how to exam it:

Disconnect the connector.
Check resistance between terminals 1 and 4. Specified value ∞ Ω (open circuit).
Printing brake pedal.
Check resistance between terminal 1 and 4. Specified value = closed circuit approx. 0 Ω.

Check between terminals ii and 3. Specified value = closed excursion approx. 0 Ω.
Printing brake pedal.
Cheque resistance betwixt terminals 2 and 3. Specified value ∞ Ω (open circuit).

12-18-201305:13 PM

Concluding edited by caldy315; 12-eighteen-2013 at 05:24 PM.

12-18-201305:25 PM

Clutch switch

Brake pedal switch

12-18-201305:37 PM

The part number looks correct. What'due south after the Xxx XXX 511? Y'all may have an upgraded switch. Did y'all see this DIY? Clicky click I doubtable the actuator rod on yours has already been extended the total length from the original shipped position.

12-18-201305:42 PM

Quote Originally Posted by quondam guy View Post

The part number looks correct. What'south subsequently the XXX XXX 511? You lot may have an upgraded switch. Did you encounter this DIY? Clicky click I suspect the actuator rod on yours has already been extende3d the full length from the original shipped position.

That and the vortex DIY was the one I was following. Both show the switch as something completely different looking. Similar the earlier and after in the link y'all posted. Every bit for the part number on the switch, the markings say "MT MW3 1K2 945 511" on the white slice and L482 on the blackness piece

12-eighteen-201305:47 PM

Is yours a replacement switch or are yous working with the switch that was already in place? If it is the replacement one do they look the same? Do the numbers match?

12-18-201305:53 PM

Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post

Is yours a replacement switch or are you working with the switch that was already in place? If it is the replacement one do they wait the aforementioned? Practice the numbers match?

I've replaced information technology from the dealer in one case. But I suspect something maybe upwards because the cruise doesn't kick off like it should when the brakes are pressed. You have to printing them harder than one should. Also just wanted to confirm that the switch is skillful and I'm non having this problem because of a faulty switch. Diagnosing earlier sending off the ABS module to become repaired.

12-18-201305:57 PM

From what you are describing it sounds similar the switch is out of adjustment. Typically all you demand to do is depress the restriction pedal less than �" to deactivate the cruise control. The ABS module doesn't play into the prowl control cut-off.

12-eighteen-201306:02 PM

Quote Originally Posted past onetime guy View Post

From what you lot are describing it sounds like the switch is out of adjustment. Typically all yous need to do is depress the brake pedal less than �" to deactivate the prowl control. The ABS module doesn't play into the cruise control cut-off.

Yep this is what I thought. It'southward really to the point where the pedal has to exist pressed to the betoken where the automobile lurches forward because of pressing the brakes too hard. Do you know how to adjust the brake switch then.

12-18-201306:07 PM

In the unlocked position the plunger should freely extend the total amount. As you position the switch in place the plunger should freely depress dorsum into the housing. When you rotate the switch into the seated position the mounting bracket pushes in on the tabs and the plunger gets locked in place. So all information technology should have is a very slight movement of the plunger to suspension the internal contact of the brake switch.

Edit: Make certain the brake pedal arm is seated completely on the upper travel stop when installing the switch.

12-18-201306:36 PM

Hither's something else that you can endeavour. I had a similar outcome with getting my clutch pedal upper travel switch to set properly. Instead of having the brake pedal arm bottomed out on the upper travel stop try spacing it approximately one/8" away from the stop when y'all adjust the the pedal switch plunger. If that doesn't piece of work then endeavor pressing the plunger approximately 1/8" in the other direction when you lock it in place.

It is very difficult to check the switch for proper operation when it is out of the car and non adjusted in place. The motion between on and off isn't over the full travel of the plunger. Information technology activates in the first 1/8" of travel from the set position. You need to make the continuity tests that I outlined in post #2 with a properly adjusted switch that is in place and properly fix.

12-18-201306:39 PM

Hmm. How about the brake lights? When do those come on?

I am pretty sure the cruise command brake abolish is double redundant. At that place are at least 3 ways the brake pedal will close down the cruise:

- brake light switch's normally airtight "cruise pins" will pause contact
- brake light switch's normally open up "lamp pins" will make contact (restriction light bulbs see 12v+)
- concrete brake resistance requires an engine torque request over the "cruise" threshold

The first two items apply the aforementioned adjustment. So if 1 is wrong, I would judge the other is as well: check out the behavior of the brake lights with respect to pedal position.

12-18-201306:49 PM

Quote Originally Posted by walky_talky20 View Post

Hmm. How almost the restriction lights? When practise those come up on?

I am pretty sure the cruise control brake cancel is double redundant. There are at least 3 ways the brake pedal will shut downwardly the prowl:

- brake light switch's normally closed "cruise pins" volition intermission contact
- brake light switch's commonly open "lamp pins" volition brand contact (brake low-cal bulbs see 12v

The brake lights are the same way. The switch seems like it's delayed. I have a Jeep grand cherokee to reference it confronting and all though it may not be exactly apples for apples, the Jeeps cruise and brake lights come off/on with basically a low-cal touch.
I'm gonna reinstall equally old guy suggested in merely a fleck.

12-xviii-201306:53 PM

Right on. Get that switch adjusted correctly and yous should be aureate...and much safer, too.

12-xviii-201306:55 PM

Just to be clear the ane/8" I recommended is an interpretation on my part. The intent is to try setting the plunger slightly more in one direction and if that doesn't piece of work try slighty more in the contrary direction. It may have a little more or it may take a fiddling less. You but have to play around with it until yous get it to piece of work.

Good luck!

12-18-201308:38 PM

Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post

Just to be clear the 1/viii" I recommended is an interpretation on my role. The intent is to try setting the plunger slightly more in one direction and if that doesn't work endeavor slighty more in the opposite management. It may take a little more or it may have a trivial less. You only have to play around with it until you become information technology to work.

Practiced luck!

Ok I readjusted information technology so that the lights come up on with barely whatsoever input. I don't retrieve this would affect my ABS/ESP light unfortunately though

12-xix-201307:thirteen AM

Quote Originally Posted by caldy315 View Post

I don't think this would affect my ABS/ESP light unfortunately though

So far so skilful. My abs and esp lights didn't come on at all this forenoon and the cruise at present kicks out like it should with a light restriction tap. Possibly just peradventure I take put the abs/esp lights to remainder.

12-xix-201311:03 AM

Quote Originally Posted past caldy315 View Post

So far so proficient. My abs and esp lights didn't come up on at all this morning and the prowl now kicks out like information technology should with a light brake tap. Peradventure merely maybe I have put the abs/esp lights to rest.

I'm pretty sure you have cured the problem

12-23-201311:05 PM

Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post

I'yard pretty sure you have cured the problem

I'd say its fixed too. Nothing as of yet and it'due south been near a week. I judge I should have paid more than attention when I installed it the first time.

02-23-202105:47 PM

Bumping an onetime a$$ thread..

Having the same issues as the op.. Restriction lights do not actuate until the pedal has traveled roughly one-half inch. Brand new switch from audi..

Whatsoever thoughts?

02-23-202106:29 PM

Much similar the OP, when I went to replace my brake switch I mistakenly commencement removed the similar looking clutch switch. Double check that the switch yous R&R is actually for the brake and that it is correctly self-adjusted when installed. .

03 Audi A4 Brake Light Switch Test Free Updated

03 Audi A4 Brake Light Switch Test Free Updated

Restriction pedal/lite switch diagnose with Vagcom

Brake pedal/light switch diagnose with Vagcom

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03 Audi A4 Brake Light Switch Test Free Updated

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